Friday, May 28, 2010

Thanks to author, Mark Munger, for his book review...

Thanks to Mark Munger, local published author of many books, for his great review of my book, Cooler Near the Lake (see below). Appreciate those kind words, Mark!

And... if you have not yet read any of Mark's books, check out his Cloquet River Press web site HERE  to find out more about this full time judge and writer. Having met his uncle, Willard Munger, I'm looking forward to reading his recent book about the life of one of our region's great legislators.

Cooler Near the Lake by Jim Heffernnan (2008; X-Comm ISBN188731734-1)
Jim Heffernan was a reporter and editor at the Duluth Herald and Duluth News Tribune for 42 years. For 34 years, he wrote a “slice of life” column that chronicled a variety of experiences, real and imagined, Jim and his family (again, real and imagined) endured. This collection of 52 (one for each week of the year, clever that) stories, a sort of “best of” compendium of Jim’s work will bring tears to your eyes (“Paul Wellstone Leaves Big Shoes to Fill”) and a smile to your face (“Calvin Griffith: Calvin at the Plate”). Short (mainly because his column had a word limit of approximately 600 words) and to the point, these stories are the perfect thing to read around a campfire on a canoe trip, before bed, or when, shall we say, “retiring to the facilities”. There’s much more to Heff than these stories but at least the best of what he had to say is preserved for us to enjoy. 
4 stars out of 5.

A Thanks to Mel Magree...

Hi Mel,
Lost your e-mail address but wanted to let you know your kind words about my latest blog post were appreciated. I did have fun writing it and it's nice to see that others enjoy it. Keep up the good work on your blog.

For those readers who may not be familiar with Mel's writings, you may connect to his blog HERE at his Irregular Blog site to see his comments on my latest blog post. Check out his other writings as they are always interesting and thoughtful and you'll have a lot of fun.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Disaster feared as worldwide Velcro failure spreads

Senior citizens rendered barefoot
“These people haven’t tied shoes with laces since the 20th century,” the AARP spokesman said. 
By Jim Heffernan
Here’s news you won’t find anyplace else…

In the wake of what is shaping up as the worst oil spill in U.S. history, it was learned yesterday that the government is deeply concerned about another threat that could turn the nation into turmoil: Velcro is starting to fail.

The handy hook-and-loop fastener, key to national defense as part of combat uniforms and astronauts’ space suits – not to mention other appliances on the space shuttles – began failing in January in Keokuk, Iowa, and has since been spreading to both coasts and overseas.

“We can’t explain it, but the hooks and loops just aren’t connecting anymore,” according to a source who declined to be identified because she is not authorized to speak for the National Science Foundation.

Intelligence officials reportedly are concerned that Al Qaeda or elements of the Taliban might be behind the failure.

While President Barack Obama has remained publicly silent, some of his critics in Congress and elsewhere said over the weekend that Obama’s lack of stick-to-itiveness has resulted in a weakening of Velcro nationwide.

“The president has shown time and time again his indifference to the nation’s basic needs, like the ability of our brave men and women, proudly serving in uniform on two war fronts, to slap our hallowed American flag patch on their sleeves without resorting to time-consuming and potentially dangerous needle and thread,” said Sen. Mitch O’Donnell, R-Moon.

Meanwhile, the president is said to be huddling with members of his cabinet, the Joint Chiefs and his closest aides to find ways to reverse the Velcro failure. First Lady Michelle Obama was said to be “concerned.”

Assistant Press Secretary Joshua Panchuraboldt (pronounced Josh Wa) made a brief statement to reporters acknowledging the failure and saying that the president will leave no button unbuttoned in returning Velcro effectiveness for Americans.

A spokesman for AARP, the senior citizen lobby, said millions of the nation’s seniors are unable to wear their Velcro-fastened sneakers and have been rendered barefoot. “These people haven’t tied shoes with laces since the 20th century,” the AARP spokesman said. Rioting was feared in The Villages, Fla., where many seniors reside.

Rand Paul, recently nominated as a Republican senatorial candidate from Kentucky, said the Velcro failure is a natural phenomenon and none of the government’s business. “Velcro is as Velcro does,” said Paul, who interrupted his afternoon tea to issue the statement. Paul, an eye doctor, is the son of Saint Paul.

Sarah Palin, former governor of Alaska and losing vice-presidential candidate in 2008, said in a Wichita, Kan. speech to Tea Party activists: “How’s that hookin’ and loopin’ workin’ out for ya now?"

Vice President Joe Biden urged calm. “We got along fine without Viagra throughout most of our history, and we’ll get along fine now,” he said.

When informed the emergency was not with Viagra but with Velcro, Biden said, “What?”

Film at 10.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

KUWS: Final edition this Friday

I'll be on the KUWS-FM (91.3 FM) Final Edition radio program this Friday, May 21.  Mike Simonson, program host, will facilitate a discussion with me and other local writers about column writing.  Mike seems to generate lively discussions on this weekly program. Hope you can tune us in!

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

More on Kaleva Hall and Cooler Near the Lake...

Thanks to all the visitors who stopped by to see me at the author's symposium in Virginia Mn on Saturday. Lots of good people, good snacks and a great time at the Kaleva Hall event sponsored Virginia's Bookstore on Chestnut. The 20 some authors were a friendly lot and I had a lot of fun meeting and visiting with all. And, yes, I sold a few books too. That's always nice, of course!

Just in case you might have stumbled onto this blog by mistake, you might be interested to know that besides writing here on this blog and doing a column for the Duluth~Superior Magazine, I attempt to sell my book in all area book stores and gift shops and on line through Barnes and Noble and Amazon.  My book, Cooler Near the Lake, is a selection of fifty-two columns from many years of my Duluth News Tribune newspaper columns.

Still never heard of the book? Here's what "Reading Mom" had to say on Amazon...

5.0 out of 5 stars Funny, touching, insightful bookJuly 31, 2009
By readingmom (Minneapolis, MN United States) 
This review is from: Cooler Near the Lake: Fifty-two Favorites from Thirty-four Years of Deadlines (Perfect Paperback)
"Heffernan's sense of humor and gift with words combine to make this a great read. The book includes columns previously published in the Duluth News-Tribune over the course of this gifted writer's 34 year career. Many of them are universally laugh-out-loud hilarious, while others are touching commentary on life. There are a number of columns that provide very interesting accounts of history, including brushes with famous people and big moments in Northern Minnesota history. Although it's hard to put down once you get started, it is the kind of book you can read a chapter of when you have time, since each chapter is a separate essay. This book would make a great gift for anyone who enjoys commentary/humor type writing or for anyone with a connection to Minnesota -- especially Duluth and the North Shore. Highly recommended!"

So... keep the book in mind to read or give as a gift. It's a great bathroom reading book I've been told and, as one reader informed, it's a good book to keep on the bedside table... to pick a column or two to read before falling asleep. He promised on a stack of Bibles that it was too good for putting him to sleep but shorter columns were all his sleepy eyes could take at bedtime.

Happy reading...

Friday, May 7, 2010

Happy birthday, unknown celebrities...and many happy returns

By Jim Heffernan

Happy birthday Breckin Meyer. You’re already 36, you dog you. Also Traci Lords, who’s a little ahead of Breckin at 42. Oh, and can’t forget the birthdays of Amy Heckerling and Bill Kreutzmann. Amy and Bill are getting on. She’s 56 and he’s 64. All celebrated on May 7.

Excuse me, but has anybody heard of these people? I haven’t. Not one.

Every day the Duluth daily newspaper’s astrology column lists at the top, before telling us how to operate our lives based on our astrological sign, “Celebrities Born On This Day.”

That’s what threw Breckin and Traci and Amy and Bill together.

I read the celebrity birthdays each day, hoping to find someone still going strong at my age. Doesn’t happen very often.

But I notice that many of the celebrities are celebrities I have never heard of. On May 7 they hit a home run – didn’t recognize a single name. I feel like Rip Van Winkle – asleep for 20 years. How could these people be considered celebrities if I haven’t heard of them?

I mean, I might not be that into pop culture (I admit I don’t know any rap artists), but, hey, I read the New York Times every day. I keep up. Traci Lords sounds like Tracy Lord, the character played by Katharine Hepburn in “The Philadelphia Story.”

Could be generational. Maybe some reader of this doesn’t know Rip Van Winkle and Katharine Hepburn. There are some generational gaps too wide to bridge, I admit, but these birthday boys and girls aren’t exactly Hannah Montana’s age.

So as a public service, right now (really, I didn’t look them up before I started writing this) I’m going to go to Google and check these people out. Here goes:

Breckin Meyer–pictured above–is an American actor, comedian, writer, producer and drummer (what, no taxidermist?) who was born in Minneapolis. He went to elementary school in California with Drew Barrymore (I know her) and was discovered by her agent. He’s been an a whole bunch of movies I haven’t heard of. Happy birthday, Breckin.

Traci Lords (not her real name) is an American film actress, producer, director, writer and singer who first achieved notoriety for her underage appearances in pornographic films. Hmmm. Brings to mind the late Linda Lovelace, not to mention Helen Twelvetrees (so I won’t).

Amy Heckerling is a successful American film director who has directed such notable films as “Fast Times at Ridgemont High” and “Clueless.”

Bill Kreutzmann is an American drummer who played with the Grateful Dead for the band’s entire 30-year career. Recently he has been drumming with his own band, pa-rum-pum-pum-pum.

Well, there it is. I suppose these people are celebrities to everyone who has heard of them. Kreutzmann is almost my age, but I have never been a Grateful Dead fan. Years ago, when the band’s most famous member, Jerry Garcia, died, he was referred to as an “icon.” At the time I wrote a column in the daily newspaper questioning Garcia’s icon status, since I had never heard of him until he died. I received several angry letters.

I can’t help it if I’m not a “Deadhead.” I’m just grateful to be alive.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Saving the NorShor: my letter to the editor....

I just had to respond to the writer of a letter to the editor in a recent Duluth News Tribune edition when the writer called the NorShor a pink elephant and criticized the City of Duluth for buying this vintage theater. My letter to the editor appearing in today's Duluth News Tribune is reprinted below:

"The writer of the May 3 letter, “NorShor another pink elephant for Duluth,” concerning the city’s plan to purchase the deteriorating landmark downtown theater, stated, “The city needs to hear loudly and clearly everyone’s dissatisfaction with this purchase.”

Well, not quite everyone is dissatisfied. I’m not. For nearly three decades, we have watched the NorShor slowly decline both in its physical plant and its uses, culminating in its current role as a strip joint. This beautiful, once-proud theater in the heart of the city’s burgeoning arts district had two fates facing it: further deterioration followed by inevitable bulldozing or having the city step in and save it with the same sensible tax increment financing that has been used with great success elsewhere, including much of Canal Park’s commercial development.

I applaud Mayor Don Ness for his leadership on this issue; there was at least some political risk if the May 3 letter writer was anywhere near correct in saying “everyone” is dissatisfied with the city’s plan to save the NorShor. I don’t think that assessment was correct. Everyone I talk with about it seems relieved the NorShor will be saved."
Jim Heffernan

Click HERE for the link to the letter in today's Duluth News Tribune

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Duluth history portrayed in a 1949 Saturday Evening Post article...

By Arthur W. Baum
From the April 16th 1949 Saturday Evening Post
Note:  A friend sent this along and I found it quite interesting. It's fairly long but a good read. Enjoy, Jim

The citizens of nearly every hub city, or zenith city, or queen city must sometimes be upset by the outsider's inability to understand the importance of their community in the cosmic scheme. No matter how carefully chamber-of-commerce charts and circles prove that Los Angeles or Dallas or Springfield is the very dead center of everything, the universal disbelief of strangers beyond the city limits must produce uneasiness. Which makes the case of apple-cheeked, blue-eyed, tow-haired Duluth, third city of Minnesota, unique.

For Duluth has not had to worry about outside acknowledgment of its spot on the globe since January 27, 1871. On that day an obvious stranger, Rep. J. Proctor Knott, of Kentucky, announced in Congress that Duluth was "pre-eminently a central place." Said Knott, "Duluth is ... so exactly in the center of the visible universe that: the sky comes down at precisely the same distance all around it." This backhanded crack was delivered in one of the greatest satirical speeches ever heard in Congress, one in which Proctor Knott, attempting to block the grant of lands for a railroad into the Duluth area, flayed the infant city so witheringly that Congress extended its session to hear a few more bits of skin ripped off. It does not disturb Duluth in the least. Proctor Knott was proved so wrong, so often and so soon, that Duluth soberly regards every barb he threw as a serious prophecy. The city not, only forgave him but later entertained him while he viewed his errors on the spot, and named a suburban community after him.

To be a little more precise than the Kentuckian, the city of Duluth ties at the most westerly point, of the largest, unsalted sea in the world, Lake Superior- a fluid deity which the city worships to a man. At every season of the year the sun rises on Duluth over the cold blue water or the gray ice of this inland sea, so vast that it has little tides. Hiawatha called it "Gitche Gumee, the shining Big-Sea-Water." At its sharp western nose, where it is fed by the St. Louis River, is the very headwater of all the Great Lakes, 603 feet above the ocean. Up the middle of the bay of the St. Louis and up the river for a way, the states of Minnesota and Wisconsin border each other.

Some of the oldest known rock on earth rears up on the north, or Minnesota, side of the bay, river and lake. For some unaccountable reason, Duluth has plastered itself against this rocky bluff with only a spatter of beach and a couple of sandspits for footing. It is consequently a long, skinny city, a sort of rip-saw blade with smooth edge to the water and teeth sticking up into the rocks wherever it finds a grudging crevice. Like the dachshund, Duluth is a city and a half long and a tenth of a city-wide. Twenty-six miles from one end to the other, its average width is only one-tenth its length, yet it covers more area than Boston, St. Louis or Pittsburgh.

Across the river and inner bay behind a nine-mile sandbar there is a perfectly logical place for a city. In fact, one is there -Superior, Wisconsin. That Duluth, rather than develop in comfort on the grassy flats where Superior lies, chose to buck the unlikely cliffs on the north shore is quite in character. Duluth's history is a long series of counterpunches at circumstances and events. When Duluth wins a round, it habitually comes up off the canvas to do it.

Placed originally on the wrong side of the river, it was the least promising of six villages. It engulfed them all. Ridiculed before the nation by Proctor Knott, it heard him recant fully. Failing flatly as a city on its first try, it had to start all over again more than a decade later. The gold and copper it hoped to find in its hinterland were elsewhere, and it had to settle for mere timber. But in taking the timber it stumbled upon a whole destiny in iron. And with the world's greatest iron deposit, the miraculous Mesabi Range, in Duluth hands, the local ownership was promptly lost to Easterners.

She's down, she's up. The iron that made Duluth, after a half century gave warning of coming exhaustion and promised to unmake it, and just at this critical point the late war squeezed the Mesabi harder instead of less hard. The Lake Superior iron ranges had to provide 80 per cent of the steel thrown into the war by the United States, which was most of the Allies' steel. But in the shadow of this tragic depletion Duluth has now discovered a possible new century of hope in abundant lower grade ore. If techniques for handling the leaner ore improve just enough, great beneficiating plants and increased pay rolls may appear in the iron ranges for which Duluth is supplier, outlet and shopping center.

By surviving this continuous stream of stumbles and recoveries over almost eight decades, Duluth has reached a population of about 105,000, achieved a firm industrial underpinning, captured a huge tourist business-including a large bloc of the nation's hay fever sufferers-and has built a port whose annual tonnage is second in America, exceeded only by New York.

The port is actually that of Duluth Superior, sometimes called Twin Ports or Head-of-Lakes. Duluth often uses the double name, though not always, and gladly includes the traffic tonnages of its junior across the bay when bragging on the size or merits of the combined port. On all other occasions it is capable of blandly ignoring the very existence of Superior, which has a population more than a third the size of Duluth's.

Any harbor that moves sixty-odd million tons a year is a remarkable port. But Duluth does it with only eight months of navigation, spending four, months a year ice-bound. As a bulk-commodity port 98 percent of tonnage is bulk. Duluth-Superior is doubtless unmatched in importance anywhere. It moves more than half of all Lake Superior iron ore, the chief sustenance of Pittsburgh, Cleveland, and Chicago-Gary steel, the steel heart of America.

Mechanized to its teeth, Duluth's waterfront pours twenty or more tons of iron ore into 600-foot lake vessels for every ton of anything else. Yet more of its waterfront is occupied by rows of stately concrete grain elevators than by ore docks, and the value of the grain it handles is not far behind that of its ore. Only three American cities exceed its 50,000,000 bushels of storage capacity, and it is the chief handler of the Northwest's spring wheat, flaxseed and the macaroni wheat, durum.

Coal, ore, grain and eight railroads coming into the harbor give Duluth a thoroughly industrial face, and properly so. But directly across the thin civic torso-at times narrower than a mile-the city turns so wild that the body of a suicide within the city limits once remained undiscovered for three years. And in 1918 a tragic forest fire swept through the city's decorative upper fringe of aspens, birch and pines, burned out the Northland Country Club and almost reached the waterfront. Across this upland border wild animals frequently enter town.

Slightly embarrassed by the uncivilized implications of its wild-animal affairs, Duluth yet relishes the distinction of so intimately combining industry and commerce with an occasional whooping moose chase across residential lawns. In 1947, Duluth police answered an average of two animal alerts per day. Happily, the city's crime is way below the national average in every category but larceny, and the police have time to rout deer from gardens and bears from garbage, cans. Nor do these skirmishes between the police and fauna always occur on the fringes. Witness the morning of Sunday, August 18, 1929.

At 2:15 A.M. on that day a black bear was reported out in the east-end residential district where the high grade of table scraps in the refuse cans reflects in many cases the presence of royalties from fee land owned in the iron ranges. Undoubtedly it was the same bear, a 350-pound beauty, which somewhat later fell in behind the truck of Arvid Petersen, preceding west on Superior Street toward the center of town. In two respects the bear was thus behaving exactly like a Duluthian. First, because Petersen's truck was full of Lake Superior fish, and all Duluthians are fond of the lake's excellent whitefish, lake trout and wall-eyed pike, preferably planked. Second, because he was on Superior Street, the lengthwise traffic artery paralleling the water, on which everybody travels every day.

Petersen, fish and bear, in that order, eventually reached Third Avenue East -the city's streets are atrociously named-three blocks from the mathematically central cross corner. Petersen turned here, but the bear did not. At 5:50 A.M. the bear was sighted two blocks farther west, very near the exact center of the business district. At 5:55 A.m. he had perversely turned about, retreated two blocks and was reared up against the fifteen-foot plate-glass window of the coffee shop in The Duluth, the city's largest hotel.

It was shortly apparent that whatever the coffee shop was preparing for breakfast that morning was as good as or better than a truckload of fish, because the bear casually slapped a huge hole in the window, ambled through, and made for one of two short flights of steps, which led to the kitchen at the rear. He was met by a chair hurled by Albert Nelson, the night watchman. He tried the other flight and was again bowled over by a slung chair. It is reported that on his third try the bear was looking less interested in conventional breakfast, and extremely interested in Nelson. At that point, 6:10 A.M., Police Sergeant LeBeau, of the ursine unit, who had arrived with a rifle, dropped him. The name of the coffee shop was quickly changed to The Black Bear Lounge. The bear still presides, but mounted.

If this incident characterizes Duluth, it is not primarily because of the black bear's beachhead in a midtown hotel, but rather because, of the five central figures in the affair, two were named Petersen-the assistant manager was O. M. Petersen-and one was named Nelson. Smiths and Joneses are infrequent in Duluth. Gustafsons, Andersons, Larsons, Hansons, Olsons and several other "sons" are prevalent. Fifteen per cent of Duluthians are native-born of Scandinavian parentage. And of the 20 per cent foreign-born in the population, more than half are Swedes, Norwegians and Finns.

Of the "sons" of Duluth, the most wonderfully numerous are the Johnsons. There are more than 700 Johnsons in the phone book alone, including the distinguished-looking Mayor George Johnson, who has a low, vibrant voice that brings the platform right into ordinary conversation. Mayor Johnson is also commissioner of parks and boulevards under Duluth's commission form of government, and has the quite pleasant job of tending the city's Skyline Drive, an attractive road rimming the bluff and overlooking the harbor. The mayor also has ninety parks and park areas under his jurisdiction, more recreational space than most cities twice as large ever dream of.

Mayor Johnson believes that the people of Duluth possess a marvelously co-operative spirit -a doubtful premise, since there are several cleavages along its stringy length. The main personality split in Duluth occurs about where an interfering spine of rocks comes down from the hill to Superior Street just a few blocks west of midtown. West of this point of rocks Duluth is politically left, east of it it is politically right. But there is a certain uniting force in cold weather, of which Duluth has its share. Hostile parties have been known to refer to a Duluth winter as a year, "except for that week of poor sledding," but actually the climate is moderated by the presence of Lake Superior, and the city has never known an official winter temperature colder than a bracing forty-one degrees below zero.

This is nevertheless cool enough to afford ice-skating, and neighbors everywhere join in preparing small earth-dike rinks. One of Mayor Johnson's special examples of "the spirit of the people" is a skating rink in Duluth Heights, where community-club members built a warming house and recreation building with their own hands last fall. This illustration of co-operation has a Johnsonian sidelight, though the three people who were sponsor, president and building-committee chairman were, respectively, Mayor George Johnson, Dewey Johnson and Charles Johnson, not related.

The name Duluth, nicely adapted to the silver-bell tones of the Scandinavian tongue, is nevertheless a relic of seventeenth-century New France. The city was named for Daniel Greysolon, Sieur du Lhut, or Luth, a fur trader from Montreal who made himself favorably known at the head of the lakes in the late 1600's. The county of which Duluth is the seat is St. Louis County, larger than the states of Rhode Island and Connecticut together. Fond du Lac, site of the earliest settled fur-trading center at the mouth of the St. Louis River and birthplace of the region's first almost white child, is now part of Duluth.

Place names like Mille Lacs and Lac La Croix, which occur mixed in with Chippewa Indian names like Kabetogama and Eshquagama, are about all the imprint the French left on the region known as the Arrowhead Country. Duluth is the capital and St. Louis County the central slice of the Arrowhead, a territory squeezed to a sort of arrowhead point between the Canadian boundary and the north shore of Lake Superior. The Arrowhead has been under eleven different sovereignties in its time, and if a story about the thrifty Benjamin Franklin is true, the whole region owes a debt to Philadelphia. Franklin, it is alleged, hearing that Isle Royale in Lake Superior, northeast of Duluth, was the site of rich Indian copper mines, shrewdly hoisted the United States boundary line to include it when he signed the post-Revolution treaty with the British, thus capturing the Arrowhead and its iron-ore ranges, including future Duluth.

Whether that is true or not, another Philadelphian, the financier Jay Cooke, certainly gave Duluth a hand up. The village had been born in 1857, only to collapse in the panic of the same year, one of its several panic flattenings. Jay Cooke boomed it into a city in 1870 by terminating a progenitor of the Great Northern Railroad there. The panic of 1873 bankrupted both Cooke and Duluth, knocking the city completely out of city status for fourteen years. It did not reincorporate until after still another Philadelphian, Charlemagne Tower, financed a railroad in 1884 to bring the first iron ore out of the Vermilion Range to the lake twenty-six miles northeast of Duluth.

Duluth at that time was scarcely interested in the iron, which was known to be present in its hinterland, preferring timber and grain. But some of the timber cruisers, notably the seven Merritts, of Duluth, looked as much for iron as for timber and thereby discovered the great Mesabi Range, source of more iron than all the other Superior deposits combined.

The Merritts were Duluthians who planned to extend their iron empire beyond the mines to include their own railroad, docks, shipping fleet and steel mills. What might have happened if they had succeeded is something Duluth can puzzle over for a long time. They did ship the first ore into Duluth in 1892, but they also borrowed extensively against their properties. Books have been written about what happened between the Merritts and John D. Rockefeller, who lent the money, but in the end Rockefeller owned the properties and the Merritts accepted a settlement which left little of their original dream. The panic of 1893, another flattening blow for Duluth, not only wounded the Merritts but nipped many of the small mining ventures that were starting on the Mesabi.

It is scarcely credible that in the 1890's any Duluthians or anyone else fully glimpsed the immensities, which underlay their iron tradings. Timber families who sold cutover land to mining people were none too glad to get it back when buyers could not meet payments. Some of those who grumbled loudest at their failure to get rid of land containing nothing but iron are happily collecting royalties on it today.

A few dozen miles from Duluth, at Hibbing, is a hole in the ground out of which more earth has been moved than was dug in the Panama Canal. Duluth was in great part built on the work and wealth entailed in this and other open pit and shaft iron ore from the Mesabi, Vermilion and Cuyuna ranges. But Duluth doesn't much give the appearance of iron or see a great deal of the ore it ships. Trainloads coming down the hill move overhead on trestlework directly to the two vast docks on the Duluth side of the harbor. The railroad that hauls most of the ore - the Duluth, Missabe and Iron Range-has the highest traffic density in the country, but relatively little passenger or normal freight. And the Great Northern, second ore carrier, takes its ore to the Superior docks.

Despite its iron dominance, the city has a Middle West look and Middle West lack of eccentricities, except for topography. The largest pay roll in town is at the wire-and-rod mill of American Steel and Wire Company, but that is tucked off at one end, along the river. An unusual number of checkered wool shirts and red caps are observable on Superior Street, and store windows commonly display snowshoes along with inevitable skis, fishing gear and guns-St. Louis County is classified as 84 per cent wild land. The rolling gait of a visiting lumberjack is often seen, but the sawmills are long since gone and cool Duluth's second-largest pay roll is, oddly enough, the Coolerator Company's refrigerator plant.

Out on Rice's Point, near the grain elevators and coal docks, are small frame houses, which come close to slumminess. Elsewhere the average Duluth house is squarish frame, sometimes yellow brick. The west end is less pretentious than the east end, and its Democratic-Farmer-Labor politics have overbalanced the east end Republicans for years.

Considering that a good deal of royalties from fee land in the iron ranges settles on the slopes of the east end, the houses sprawled there are not ostentatious and are indeed less padded with lawn and garden room than would be the case if Duluth were not trying to clamber up its rocky bluff.

Culture is largely a possession of the east end, and includes not only a very good St. Louis County Historical Society but the Chisholm Memorial Children's Museum, a useful little organization which has portable exhibits that are used by the public schools. Sinclair Lewis lived in a house overlooking Congdon Park, a mining-family name which, like Crosby and Sellwood, is memorialized in the city's street names. Lewis was a temporary resident, however. Duluth's principal literary contribution is a native, the novelist, Margaret Culkin Banning.

The University of Minnesota maintains its only branch in the east end of Duluth, and by an odd coincidence young Doctor Raymond Gibson, president of the UM Duluth branch, comes from the original bailiwick of Proctor Knott in Kentucky. Doctor Gibson has elaborate hopes for the university branch, and so does Duluth. Only recently established, a horizon of 10,000 enrollments is glimpsed for the school, hundreds of them doubtless to be Johnsons.

A daily Finnish newspaper in Duluth gave up last year and its plant was taken over by the Labor World, which has a substantial circulation. But the main morning and afternoon newspapers are Ridder papers, which cover the port and iron-range news as a matter of course and also devote regular space to one of the city's odd whimsies, an inordinate interest in the game of cribbage. The number of cribbage boards around town is astounding, and the presence of a near-perfect 28 hand in a tussle between two teams of the City Cribbage League is a matter for serious news report.

Taxicab rates are exceptionally high in Duluth, and there are no chain stores. Duluthians believe that the absence of chain supermarkets is somehow hitched to the fact that there is almost no place in town where an adequate trade-area circle could be drawn without running its circumference into the lake or over the hill, or both. About the only thing that will get residents together from the extremes of Lester Park and Fond du Lac is the Duluth Symphony, which was once rather loosely described as one of the country's ten best.

Finns still take steam baths in and around Duluth, but Old World and native customs are disappearing. A young couple who have a folk craft store downtown stock it with North Carolina woodcarvings, West Virginia hand-blown glass and other imports. Only rarely can they find a Chippewa squaw who is still turning out porcupine-quill work, willow basketry or Indian moccasins. Some heavy Finnish socks of tinted and matted, rather than woven, wool are still made, and there is a modest business in native foods that can be combined with the wild rice from the up county marshes.

The marshes north of town hold an immense supply of peat, which was used for one season to supply all the fuel requirements of a large Minneapolis hotel. No efficient way has been devised for handling the peat yet, but several people are interested in it, including a resources-and-rehabilitation commission of the state of Minnesota, which has also sponsored a promising wood-products plant in Duluth turning out fine pressed board. The state's interest in St. Louis County resources stems from the possibility of iron exhaustion someday. It is only proper that the state should be interested, since it is itself the largest holder of iron land and not only collects its private royalties but taxes all other iron land and iron production onerously.

Duluth was once famous in the country's retail stores as the home of the Patrick Mackinaw, a short, heavy wool coat worn by pre-1920 youth. The Patrick label, on different garments, is currently being revived by the Alworth Woolen Mills, owned by Royal Alworth, whose father once cruised timber and bought land in the iron country.

Alworth may not be the heaviest holder of fee land in the iron range, but he is undoubtedly the most active Duluth businessman. He is owner of the two main office buildings, among other properties, in the 300 block on West Superior Street. Largely because of his Alworth Building and Medical Arts Building, the string-bean city has a surprising business concentration in this one block.

Up the hill a block are two vital spots, the Duluth Board of Trade and the Oliver Iron Mining Company. Over the sample tables and in their offices members of the Board of Trade may handle a quarter billion dollars' worth of grain and flax in one season. Duluth now handles only cash grain, having lost its once-brisk grain-futures market.

In the offices of the Oliver Iron Mining Company, modestly housed in the Wolvin Building, is the thickest concentration of Duluth's highly important iron streak. Oliver Iron is a subsidiary of the United States Steel Corporation. So is the D. M. & I. R. Railroad, in the same building. So also are the American Steel and Wire plant, the cement plant and one of the huge ship companies. In a west-end laboratory Oliver Iron-whose president, up to retirement three years ago, was Le Roy Salsich, Margaret Culkin Banning's husband is working on a problem over which Duluth could theoretically hold its breath for the next twenty years, or until it is satisfactorily solved. Seven other laboratories, including a state laboratory, are pounding at the same thing, the problem of reluctant iron ore.

The Minnesota iron ranges, particularly the great Mesabi, have for a half century been handling a hematite ore so agreeable that it is ready for the furnace as soon as it is shoveled up, or willingly parts with the rock in which it occurs, if that is necessary. This "shmoo" ore is now estimated to be good for only another fifteen or twenty years. There will remain, however, billions of tons of considerably less amiable ore, leaner ore, ore which clings quite tightly to its accompanying rock. How to crush, separate and process such ore and how to handle its variations in rock hardness and iron quality without running the costs to prohibitive levels is the biggest question in Duluth. It has been done, all right, in the laboratory and pilot plant. But can it be done to produce 200,000 tons every day of the year?

One of the benefits conferred on the growing city by its hinterland several decades ago was a wholesale-distribution business of substantial size and variety. Some of that has now been lost, but two large hardware wholesalers, Marshall Wells Company and Kelley-How Thomson remain in full vigor, their ledgers often turning up items peculiar to the Northwest. Kelley-How-Thomson, for example, annually sells hundreds of dozens of lumbermen's mittens with detachable linings. Both concerns together-Marshall Wells is the world's largest hardware jobber-sell 20,000 double-bit axes against, 12,000 single-bit, a ratio that clearly spells timber. The city's other commerce includes occasional items peculiar to its situation and make-up. Duluth ships millions of Christmas trees and, thanks to the Scandinavians, consumes abnormal quantities of coffee. It is a poor town for gin, but a good one for whisky. A Duluth company is one of the large growers of Chinese vegetables and bamboo sprouts, and the Klearflax Company, which sells flax tow for cigarette papers, also possesses what is probably the country's only plant where linen rugs and carpeting are made.

Duluth, just naturally a skiing and skating town, has a hundred little ski jumps for juniors alone and one floodlighted jump for night skiing. This last winter an elaborate and picturesque winter-sports area was completed at Fond du Lac to bid for winter-tourist business to supplement the large summer influx the city has been receiving.

Possibly the most nonathletic place in town is the Duluth Athletic Club, a bright new downtown club at which businessmen eat lunch and play cribbage. In the evening the nonathletes can be seen at the city's club-life showpiece, the Kitchi Gammi Club on East Superior Street, Minnesota's oldest social club. Kitchi Gammi, a variant of Gitche Gumee-Duluth has a terrible time with spelling; for example, Mesabi, Missabe, Mesaba, Mesabe - is scarcely as whimsical as its name. A ponderous building, the clubhouse was built in heavy English style. Small bits of iron-land income sometimes change hands here over the cribbage board, the planked fish is really splendid, and to fit the English character of the building, it looks out on the lake over London Road. Since there is nothing very British about the purposes or membership of the club, it is just as well that the building also overlooks Leif Erikson Park, a statue of Jay Cooke, a du Pont powder division office; and the membership list; includes three each of the Johnsons and the Andersons.

The only straight-out supper club in Duluth, The Flame, is a flossy restaurant: which booms in summer, starves in winter, and of course serves planked whitefish, lake trout and wall-eyed pike. It is cunningly situated on the waterfront, for Duluthians can sit here and endlessly admire the aerial-lift bridge, which spans the canal through Minnesota Point, and reminds them of a past victory over Superior, Wisconsin. Minnesota Point is the sand bar, about a block wide, which stands between the lake and the inner bays. Entry into the harbor was formerly made only at a spot close to Superior, requiring Duluth-bound boats not only to go several miles out of their way but also to be exposed to the sight, of Superior docks. In 1870, Duluth began to dig a canal through the sand bar at the Duluth end. Indignant Superior secured a Federal injunction against the canal, but while it was on its way from Washington, numbers of Duluthians rushed out with shovels and completed the short canal.

Originally the aerial-lift bridge was not: exactly a bridge, but a high arch from which was suspended a sort; of basket which traveled back and forth with passengers and vehicles across the open canal. It is now one of the fastest vertical-lift bridges in existence, rising to its full height of 138 feet in less than a minute. It is so delicately counterbalanced that when snow or sleet adds to its weight, the matter is adjusted by tucking concrete blocks into small pockets in the counterweights. Duluth eyes are often on the bridge. To strike a rough average, there is a vessel moving through the canal every twenty minutes of the season, night and day, and according to the Army Corps of Engineers, which has jurisdiction over the port, bulk freighters of the Great Lakes haul more than twice the normal tonnage of all the rest of the United States merchant fleet combined. The cargo record is 20,634 short tons in a single ship. At the record loading speed, this ship could have been loaded in less than one hour.

Traffic beneath the bridge will pass very close to a spot where, a little more than two decades ago, Duluth made rowing history. The Duluth Boat Club produced Walter Hoover, who won the world's single-sculls championship in 1922, and so-called "iron-man" crews of four and eight made records thirty years ago that still stand. Chief sponsor of the boat club in those days was Julius H. Barnes, who was United States Wheat Director in the late years of Woodrow Wilson's Administration, and whose name is still on a trophy for which oarsmen in national meets compete today. Barnes, however, dropped out of grain and the boat club at about the same time, and turned to shipbuilding. Today he is president of the National St. Lawrence Association and is Duluth's most fervent proponent of a seaway from the Lakes to the Atlantic.

Barnes was an early associate of Capt. Alexander McDougall, who built ships that older residents in the Great Lakes region will remember very well. Called whalebacks, they had pointed prows and rounded sides, and quickly earned the name "pigboat" from sailors. Most famous of the breed was the Christopher Columbus, built for passenger cruises from the World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 1893.

The whalebacks eventually gave way to the straight-sided, shallow-draft, flat-bellied ore boats of today. Barnes built similar adaptations of the whaleback, some of which got out into the oceans. But only those shorter than 255 feet could get through the Welland Canal from Lake Erie into Ontario, and Barnes, who wanted to build ocean-going ships larger than this, was aroused to greater indignation than most people by the bottleneck in the St. Lawrence outlet. All Duluthians, peering under the skeletal outlines of their precious lift bridge, can visualize ocean vessels steaming off to distant continents, and incidentally making Duluth an exit port for all the Northwest down to Omaha, Nebraska.

Of course, within the 255-foot limit, Duluth is already a seaport. Four Swedish vessels visited Duluth last season, bringing English motorcars and lutefisk, taking back farm wagons and merchandise. Once a Swedish ship brought wood pulp for a paper plant near Duluth at a price cheaper than the wood pulp from the surrounding forests, which gave the city a sharp lesson in the two-sidedness of foreign trade. Nevertheless, Duluth yearns so passionately for a St. Lawrence seaway that it has been called "an old maid city looking under its bed every night for an ocean." The only good thing Duluthians can see in the development of iron ore in Labrador is that it might help open the lake to deep-water traffic.

Probably no other city so far inland has ever seriously contemplated big ocean vessels at its door. Duluth is 2329 miles from Belle Isle Strait at the mouth of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. At that point a ship for Liverpool would have less than half its trip remaining, a mere 1898 miles. The total of these two legs, it is apparent, is 4227 miles, which catches the erroneous Proctor Knott in another of his wrongful Duluthisms. Knott said it was 3990 miles from Duluth to Liverpool, and summed up his opinion of the city's substance in 1871 by adding, "though I have no doubt, for the sake of convenience, it may be moved back ten miles so as to make the distance an even four thousand."

It was that kind of crack that, built Duluth.

Kaleva Hall on May 8...

                                     Kaleva Hall, Virginia Minnesota
Have you ever visited Kaleva Hall in Virginia MN? I'm heading there on Saturday, May 8 for a Writer's Symposium scheduled to run from 10 am until 3 pm that day.  

Twenty area authors will partake in this free event open to the public. You'll have a chance to meet area authors, buy personally signed books and enjoy a fun day with a focus on writing and books. And, of course, I'll be bringing my book, Cooler Near the Lake, with me and will gladly sign a copy for you!

I've never been to Kaleva Hall but am looking forward to seeing it for the first time. Kaleva Hall, formerly know as Temperance Hall, is a Finntown landmark that goes back to the early 1900s. A registered historic site both in Minnesota and nationally, it's been beautifully preserved and should be a vintage building worth seeing. 

Hope to see you there!